Varanasi and the north

Varanasi

One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities anywhere, and the most concentrated religious landscape in India. The ghats at dawn, the Ganga aarti at dusk, and the cremation grounds in between. It is not a comfortable city and it is not meant to be. Two days is the minimum that makes sense; the dawn boat is non-negotiable.

Amritsar

The Golden Temple, and the langar kitchen beside it that feeds tens of thousands of people a day for free, regardless of who they are. Whatever you believe, the kitchen is the thing that stays with you.

Rishikesh and Dharamshala

Where the Ganges leaves the mountains, and where the Tibetan government in exile sits. Both are quieter, cooler, and better for travellers who want a week that is not a monument every day.